One of the great things about the concept of edible landscape is the great variations in visual interest that you can create in your yard ( or on your your porch, deck or patio for that matter). I think that is why I originally started planting edible landscape. I moved into our family farmhouse about thirty years ago and it came with a large, pretty yard that would take most of my time to maintain. It was loaded with Rhodadendrons, azaleas, begonias and a very large annual bed the length of the driveway that had been planted to exactly the same annuals every year since I could remember.
I knew several things right away about that yard. 1. I didn't have the time to take care of it or the money to hire people to do it. 2. It looked a lot like every yard in the area. Everyone planted the rhodies and azeleas and it reminded me of a lot of new subdivisions today. All of the front yards look the same because the same subcontractor designed all of them. 3. Rhodies and azaleas bloom once a year, we get our first hot weather the same week, then they are exceedingly ugly when the blooms fizzle. 4. I never have liked begonias. I used to be the poor fool who got to take care of them when I was growing up and they just don't appeal to me that much. 5. I was bored with that annual bed and I didn't like the colors in it anyway. Pink and yellow (or that much of it anyway) just didn't inspire me to work in my yard.
The begonias, being on the top of the hated list went first. That is what I'd like to write about today. I have some kind of ingrained need for visual diversity. I didn't really want plants that were all the same and in straight rows like the begonias had been. I decided to try to put in an herb garden in that spot. I really knew nothing about herb growing or cooking with them, but it sounded so much more fun than those life sucking begonias. I started slowly, but over the years I have learned that growing something both visually interesting and useful in your landscape can be a lot of fun. It has also led to some great eating.
On my quest to learn more about the herbs I discovered many other great ways to use edible landscape for fun and food. One of the first things I found that gave the yard great visual interest was artichokes. Here was a very unusual looking plant that also yielded an intersting edible flower. I have never really gotten into eating them, but the rest of my family did so I pretty much grow them all the time. They do grow and produce pretty well here if you give them enough water. I have never been much to cover them in the fall (we tend to be real busy with hazelnut harvest then and I just forget) so I have to replant them every 3 or 4 years, but that has given me the opportunity to move them to a different place each time to add interest to a different part of the yard. Wait until my family sees where I'm going to put them this year!
I do recommend trying unusual plants like artichokes. They can be a great addition to your edible landscape.
Grow What you Eat!
Showing posts with label edible landscape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label edible landscape. Show all posts
Friday, May 22, 2009
Friday, May 15, 2009
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding parts of your edible landscape. Fresh tomatoes of any variety taste better than something picked green, shipped for miles then gassed to turn red. Most gardeners have their favorites, small, hybrid or heirloom that they swear by. We offer 36 different kinds of plants so you should be able to find something you'll love to grow.
Tomatoes are either hybrids or open pollinated. Many open pollinated varieties are older and are considered to be heirlooms. Hybrids have had various traits bred into them, from earliness to resistance, to various diseases. Heirlooms are often a little more challenging to grow, but the reward is a full flavored, often colorful, interestingly shaped tomato. We recommend trying some of each to see what you like and what will grow best for you.
We haven't had too much problem with pests on tomatoes except slugs, deer and our Springer Spaniel with a serious tomato addiction. Keeping ripening tomatoes off the ground with good tomato cages or supports discourages slugs. For us, it takes a good fence for the other two pests.
Natural plant resistance and a good sanitation program (removing all dead vines and a 3 year crop rotation) will prevent most fungal diseases. One problem that we have encountered with some varieties is nutritional blossom end rot. If you have our typically acidic Oregon soil, you will need to use bone meal or some other supplement to adjust your soil pH and increase the available calcium. Consult your local garden store for pH test kits and calcium options. I usually use 1/2 c or so of bone meal in the planting hole.
When you take your plants home you should acclimate them in a sheltered area outside for a week or so. Bring them in at night or cover them to project them from frost. After the danger of frost has passed, space each plant 18-30 inches apart depending on the variety. I usually remove the bottom 2-4 leaves and place the plant to cover up to within an inch or two of the next set of leaves. I know that it hard to do, but if your plants have blossoms or tomatoes on them you should remove them. Water them to prevent stress, but try not to get the foliage wet. A drip irrigation system is great because it's an efficient use of the water because you are only watering the plant itself. Also it is a great way to prevent disease because the foliage will not get wet. You can use mushroom compost before planting or a mild fertilizer. A fish fertilizer is a good option for this.
Indeterminate tomatoes definitely need support, but I support all my tomatoes, regardless of their type, with cages to keep their tomatoes off the ground. Keeping the tomatoes off the ground will decrease the likelihood that slugs will eat the fruit. I have my little beer filled "Slug Bars" out where our dog, who is also a lush, can't get to them. Companion planting tomatoes with basil is good, but remember the tomatoes will grow tall so plant the basil on the south side.
Now just remember to keep your tomatoes watered and the deer out of them and you are well on your way to a great crop of fresh tomatoes!
Grow what you eat!!
Tomatoes are either hybrids or open pollinated. Many open pollinated varieties are older and are considered to be heirlooms. Hybrids have had various traits bred into them, from earliness to resistance, to various diseases. Heirlooms are often a little more challenging to grow, but the reward is a full flavored, often colorful, interestingly shaped tomato. We recommend trying some of each to see what you like and what will grow best for you.
We haven't had too much problem with pests on tomatoes except slugs, deer and our Springer Spaniel with a serious tomato addiction. Keeping ripening tomatoes off the ground with good tomato cages or supports discourages slugs. For us, it takes a good fence for the other two pests.
Natural plant resistance and a good sanitation program (removing all dead vines and a 3 year crop rotation) will prevent most fungal diseases. One problem that we have encountered with some varieties is nutritional blossom end rot. If you have our typically acidic Oregon soil, you will need to use bone meal or some other supplement to adjust your soil pH and increase the available calcium. Consult your local garden store for pH test kits and calcium options. I usually use 1/2 c or so of bone meal in the planting hole.
When you take your plants home you should acclimate them in a sheltered area outside for a week or so. Bring them in at night or cover them to project them from frost. After the danger of frost has passed, space each plant 18-30 inches apart depending on the variety. I usually remove the bottom 2-4 leaves and place the plant to cover up to within an inch or two of the next set of leaves. I know that it hard to do, but if your plants have blossoms or tomatoes on them you should remove them. Water them to prevent stress, but try not to get the foliage wet. A drip irrigation system is great because it's an efficient use of the water because you are only watering the plant itself. Also it is a great way to prevent disease because the foliage will not get wet. You can use mushroom compost before planting or a mild fertilizer. A fish fertilizer is a good option for this.
Indeterminate tomatoes definitely need support, but I support all my tomatoes, regardless of their type, with cages to keep their tomatoes off the ground. Keeping the tomatoes off the ground will decrease the likelihood that slugs will eat the fruit. I have my little beer filled "Slug Bars" out where our dog, who is also a lush, can't get to them. Companion planting tomatoes with basil is good, but remember the tomatoes will grow tall so plant the basil on the south side.
Now just remember to keep your tomatoes watered and the deer out of them and you are well on your way to a great crop of fresh tomatoes!
Grow what you eat!!
Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding parts of your edible landscape. Fresh tomatoes of any variety taste better than something picked green, shipped for miles then gassed to turn red. Most gardeners have their favorites, small, hybrid or heirloom that they swear by. We offer 36 different kinds of plants so you should be able to find something you'll love to grow.
Tomatoes are either hybrids or open pollinated. Many open pollinated varieties are older and are considered to be heirlooms. Hybrids have had various traits bred into them, from earliness to resistance, to various diseases. Heirlooms are often a little more challenging to grow, but the reward is a full flavored, often colorful, interestingly shaped tomato. We recommend trying some of each to see what you like and what will grow best for you.
We haven't had too much problem with pests on tomatoes except slugs, deer and our Springer Spaniel with a serious tomato addiction. Keeping ripening tomatoes off the ground with good tomato cages or supports discourages slugs. For us, it takes a good fence for the other two pests.
Natural plant resistance and a good sanitation program (removing all dead vines and a 3 year crop rotation) will prevent most fungal diseases. One problem that we have encountered with some varieties is nutritional blossom end rot. If you have our typically acidic Oregon soil, you will need to use bone meal or some other supplement to adjust your soil pH and increase the available calcium. Consult your local garden store for pH test kits and calcium options. I usually use 1/2 c or so of bone meal in the planting hole.
When you take your plants home you should acclimate them in a sheltered area outside for a week or so. Bring them in at night or cover them to project them from frost. After the danger of frost has passed, space each plant 18-30 inches apart depending on the variety. I usually remove the bottom 2-4 leaves and place the plant to cover up to within an inch or two of the next set of leaves. I know that it hard to do, but if your plants have blossoms or tomatoes on them you should remove them. Water them to prevent stress, but try not to get the foliage wet. A drip irrigation system is great because it's an efficient use of the water because you are only watering the plant itself. Also it is a great way to prevent disease because the foliage will not get wet. You can use mushroom compost before planting or a mild fertilizer. A fish fertilizer is a good option for this.
Indeterminate tomatoes definitely need support, but I support all my tomatoes, regardless of their type, with cages to keep their tomatoes off the ground. Keeping the tomatoes off the ground will decrease the likelihood that slugs will eat the fruit. I have my little beer filled "Slug Bars" out where our dog, who is also a lush, can't get to them. Companion planting tomatoes with basil is good, but remember the tomatoes will grow tall so plant the basil on the south side.
Now just remember to keep your tomatoes watered and the deer out of them and you are well on your way to a great crop of fresh tomatoes!
Grow what you eat!!
Tomatoes are either hybrids or open pollinated. Many open pollinated varieties are older and are considered to be heirlooms. Hybrids have had various traits bred into them, from earliness to resistance, to various diseases. Heirlooms are often a little more challenging to grow, but the reward is a full flavored, often colorful, interestingly shaped tomato. We recommend trying some of each to see what you like and what will grow best for you.
We haven't had too much problem with pests on tomatoes except slugs, deer and our Springer Spaniel with a serious tomato addiction. Keeping ripening tomatoes off the ground with good tomato cages or supports discourages slugs. For us, it takes a good fence for the other two pests.
Natural plant resistance and a good sanitation program (removing all dead vines and a 3 year crop rotation) will prevent most fungal diseases. One problem that we have encountered with some varieties is nutritional blossom end rot. If you have our typically acidic Oregon soil, you will need to use bone meal or some other supplement to adjust your soil pH and increase the available calcium. Consult your local garden store for pH test kits and calcium options. I usually use 1/2 c or so of bone meal in the planting hole.
When you take your plants home you should acclimate them in a sheltered area outside for a week or so. Bring them in at night or cover them to project them from frost. After the danger of frost has passed, space each plant 18-30 inches apart depending on the variety. I usually remove the bottom 2-4 leaves and place the plant to cover up to within an inch or two of the next set of leaves. I know that it hard to do, but if your plants have blossoms or tomatoes on them you should remove them. Water them to prevent stress, but try not to get the foliage wet. A drip irrigation system is great because it's an efficient use of the water because you are only watering the plant itself. Also it is a great way to prevent disease because the foliage will not get wet. You can use mushroom compost before planting or a mild fertilizer. A fish fertilizer is a good option for this.
Indeterminate tomatoes definitely need support, but I support all my tomatoes, regardless of their type, with cages to keep their tomatoes off the ground. Keeping the tomatoes off the ground will decrease the likelihood that slugs will eat the fruit. I have my little beer filled "Slug Bars" out where our dog, who is also a lush, can't get to them. Companion planting tomatoes with basil is good, but remember the tomatoes will grow tall so plant the basil on the south side.
Now just remember to keep your tomatoes watered and the deer out of them and you are well on your way to a great crop of fresh tomatoes!
Grow what you eat!!
Friday, April 24, 2009
These Can Be Planted Before Frost Free
I have spent a lot of time reminding everyone not to plant too early. Up here on the mountain we were close to freezing this morning (there was frost on my lawn). I'm sure there was frost at least in protected areas in the valley. A quick review, it's too early for tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, eggplant and especially basil.
On a positive note, however, there are lots of wonderful vegetables and herbs that can tolerate frost in varying degrees. That's what I want to talk about today. I'm sure I won't remember to mention them all, but hopefully it will give you an idea. If you have a question about specific plants you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com.
Hardy herbs like lavender, rosemary, sage, chives and parsley are frost tolerant. REALLY cold weather like we had this winter will damage rosemary (you should see my poor old rosemary plant, it used to be large), but the temps we have this time of the year won't bother most varieties, especially Hill Hardy or Arp. These newer varieties are specifically bred to take more cold. If you get new plants from us next week at the Hillsboro or Sherwood market be sure to ask if the plant you are getting has been in the greenhouse or outside. Plants coming from the greenhouse should be hardened off by putting them outside for a week or so before planting. They will do so much better.
Mint can be damaged by frost, but they will come out of it and with the way mint grows you usually don't notice any damage for long. Because mint can be invasive we usually recommend planting it in pots anyway so you can bring them in if it frosts hard.
A lot of vegetables can tolerate some frost too. Peas, cabbage, Kale, broccoli, onions, lettuce, cauliflower and kohlrabi just ignore the frost and in fact grow better in cool weather. We will have some of those the first couple weeks of May and again in the fall. We also do some summer lettuce that is more heat tolerant, which I recommend planting from mid June until fall. I have probably forgotten to mention some plants, so check our calendar at our website www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com.
I am really looking forward to market next Sat, May 2. We will be at Hillsboro and Sherwood. I should say Krista and I (and Molly) will be at Hillsboro and Peter and Annika will be at Sherwood. Hope we have good weather!!
Grow What You Eat!!
On a positive note, however, there are lots of wonderful vegetables and herbs that can tolerate frost in varying degrees. That's what I want to talk about today. I'm sure I won't remember to mention them all, but hopefully it will give you an idea. If you have a question about specific plants you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com.
Hardy herbs like lavender, rosemary, sage, chives and parsley are frost tolerant. REALLY cold weather like we had this winter will damage rosemary (you should see my poor old rosemary plant, it used to be large), but the temps we have this time of the year won't bother most varieties, especially Hill Hardy or Arp. These newer varieties are specifically bred to take more cold. If you get new plants from us next week at the Hillsboro or Sherwood market be sure to ask if the plant you are getting has been in the greenhouse or outside. Plants coming from the greenhouse should be hardened off by putting them outside for a week or so before planting. They will do so much better.
Mint can be damaged by frost, but they will come out of it and with the way mint grows you usually don't notice any damage for long. Because mint can be invasive we usually recommend planting it in pots anyway so you can bring them in if it frosts hard.
A lot of vegetables can tolerate some frost too. Peas, cabbage, Kale, broccoli, onions, lettuce, cauliflower and kohlrabi just ignore the frost and in fact grow better in cool weather. We will have some of those the first couple weeks of May and again in the fall. We also do some summer lettuce that is more heat tolerant, which I recommend planting from mid June until fall. I have probably forgotten to mention some plants, so check our calendar at our website www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com.
I am really looking forward to market next Sat, May 2. We will be at Hillsboro and Sherwood. I should say Krista and I (and Molly) will be at Hillsboro and Peter and Annika will be at Sherwood. Hope we have good weather!!
Grow What You Eat!!
I have spent a lot of time reminding everyone not to plant too early. Up here on the mountain we were close to freezing this morning (there was frost on my lawn). I'm sure there was frost at least in protected areas in the valley. A quick review, it's too early for tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, eggplant and especially basil.
On a positive note, however, there are lots of wonderful vegetables and herbs that can tolerate frost in varying degrees. That's what I want to talk about today. I'm sure I won't remember to mention them all, but hopefully it will give you an idea. If you have a question about specific plants you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com.
Hardy herbs like lavender, rosemary, sage, chives and parsley are frost tolerant. REALLY cold weather like we had this winter will damage rosemary (you should see my poor old rosemary plant, it used to be large), but the temps we have this time of the year won't bother most varieties, especially Hill Hardy or Arp. These newer varieties are specifically bred to take more cold. If you get new plants from us next week at the Hillsboro or Sherwood market be sure to ask if the plant you are getting has been in the greenhouse or outside. Plants coming from the greenhouse should be hardened off by putting them outside for a week or so before planting. They will do so much better.
Mint can be damaged by frost, but they will come out of it and with the way mint grows you usually don't notice any damage for long. Because mint can be invasive we usually recommend planting it in pots anyway so you can bring them in if it frosts hard.
A lot of vegetables can tolerate some frost too. Peas, cabbage, Kale, broccoli, onions, lettuce, cauliflower and kohlrabi just ignore the frost and in fact grow better in cool weather. We will have some of those the first couple weeks of May and again in the fall. We also do some summer lettuce that is more heat tolerant, which I recommend planting from mid June until fall. I have probably forgotten to mention some plants, so check our calendar at our website www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com.
I am really looking forward to market next Sat, May 2. We will be at Hillsboro and Sherwood. I should say Krista and I (and Molly) will be at Hillsboro and Peter and Annika will be at Sherwood. Hope we have good weather!!
Grow What You Eat!!
On a positive note, however, there are lots of wonderful vegetables and herbs that can tolerate frost in varying degrees. That's what I want to talk about today. I'm sure I won't remember to mention them all, but hopefully it will give you an idea. If you have a question about specific plants you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com.
Hardy herbs like lavender, rosemary, sage, chives and parsley are frost tolerant. REALLY cold weather like we had this winter will damage rosemary (you should see my poor old rosemary plant, it used to be large), but the temps we have this time of the year won't bother most varieties, especially Hill Hardy or Arp. These newer varieties are specifically bred to take more cold. If you get new plants from us next week at the Hillsboro or Sherwood market be sure to ask if the plant you are getting has been in the greenhouse or outside. Plants coming from the greenhouse should be hardened off by putting them outside for a week or so before planting. They will do so much better.
Mint can be damaged by frost, but they will come out of it and with the way mint grows you usually don't notice any damage for long. Because mint can be invasive we usually recommend planting it in pots anyway so you can bring them in if it frosts hard.
A lot of vegetables can tolerate some frost too. Peas, cabbage, Kale, broccoli, onions, lettuce, cauliflower and kohlrabi just ignore the frost and in fact grow better in cool weather. We will have some of those the first couple weeks of May and again in the fall. We also do some summer lettuce that is more heat tolerant, which I recommend planting from mid June until fall. I have probably forgotten to mention some plants, so check our calendar at our website www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com.
I am really looking forward to market next Sat, May 2. We will be at Hillsboro and Sherwood. I should say Krista and I (and Molly) will be at Hillsboro and Peter and Annika will be at Sherwood. Hope we have good weather!!
Grow What You Eat!!
Friday, April 17, 2009
Garden Prep this Week in Hillsboro, Sherwood, and Tigard, OR
I don't know about where you are at, but we are supposed to have some very nice weather this weekend. The weather people are talking about temps in the high 70's. April, May and June tend to be very changeable here in the Willamette Valley so we could be back to freezing next weekend who knows.
The season here this year is VERY late. Our cherries are not even in full bloom yet. They are usually in full bloom at least by my birthday which was last week even in a fairly late year so you can see how late we are this year. The warm weather this weekend should be perfect for the cherries.
It should also be a perfect time to get your garden prepared and some cool crop things planted. It's perfect for those root crops that you need to seed directly like carrots, beets and radishes. Carrots and beets take a while ( 3 weeks) to germinate so you can plant radishes as markers( plant them about 2" away) for them in your garden. Radishes come up in a few days and are ready to eat before carrots or beets are very big at all. That is also a very efficient use of garden space.
You can also plant lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and onions, but I recommend plants for those. If you don't get some started yourself we will have them at the Hillsboro and Sherwood Farmers' Markets starting on May 2 and also at Orenco and Tigard on Sundays starting the following weekend. The OHSU market starts in mid May, but they are having a special Earth Day market on April 24th. Krista will be there.
Be sure to save some room for warmer weather plants too. Tomatoes can go in after ALL danger of frost is past. In Hillsboro that is usually about the 10th or 12th of May, but you can keep an eye on the weather as we get close. A warning: Hillsboro had a hard frost on the 18th of May last year. I think Sherwood and Tigard have a little earlier frost free dates than Hillsboro usually, but again I would keep a close eye on the weather.
Some plants really need to be planted when the weather warms up and NOT before. Those include peppers, cucumbers, squash, eggplant and BASIL. We will have lots of those plants at the market when we get closer to the proper time to plant them.
Putting those types of plants in too early usually stunts them and they just can't seem to get going.
I am really looking forward to garden season this year. I have my raised beds all ready to go, and they are properly protected from the deer and my dog. We also have added a large garden space for corn, squash and cucumbers this year. We will be ready to enjoy all of those crops fresh from our garden this year. They taste so much better than what you buy at the store. Also, a few tomato plants can produce a $100 worth of tomatoes. Think what that will do for your food budget.
I am going to go get to work transplanting tomatoes now.
GROW WHAT YOU EAT!!
The season here this year is VERY late. Our cherries are not even in full bloom yet. They are usually in full bloom at least by my birthday which was last week even in a fairly late year so you can see how late we are this year. The warm weather this weekend should be perfect for the cherries.
It should also be a perfect time to get your garden prepared and some cool crop things planted. It's perfect for those root crops that you need to seed directly like carrots, beets and radishes. Carrots and beets take a while ( 3 weeks) to germinate so you can plant radishes as markers( plant them about 2" away) for them in your garden. Radishes come up in a few days and are ready to eat before carrots or beets are very big at all. That is also a very efficient use of garden space.
You can also plant lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and onions, but I recommend plants for those. If you don't get some started yourself we will have them at the Hillsboro and Sherwood Farmers' Markets starting on May 2 and also at Orenco and Tigard on Sundays starting the following weekend. The OHSU market starts in mid May, but they are having a special Earth Day market on April 24th. Krista will be there.
Be sure to save some room for warmer weather plants too. Tomatoes can go in after ALL danger of frost is past. In Hillsboro that is usually about the 10th or 12th of May, but you can keep an eye on the weather as we get close. A warning: Hillsboro had a hard frost on the 18th of May last year. I think Sherwood and Tigard have a little earlier frost free dates than Hillsboro usually, but again I would keep a close eye on the weather.
Some plants really need to be planted when the weather warms up and NOT before. Those include peppers, cucumbers, squash, eggplant and BASIL. We will have lots of those plants at the market when we get closer to the proper time to plant them.
Putting those types of plants in too early usually stunts them and they just can't seem to get going.
I am really looking forward to garden season this year. I have my raised beds all ready to go, and they are properly protected from the deer and my dog. We also have added a large garden space for corn, squash and cucumbers this year. We will be ready to enjoy all of those crops fresh from our garden this year. They taste so much better than what you buy at the store. Also, a few tomato plants can produce a $100 worth of tomatoes. Think what that will do for your food budget.
I am going to go get to work transplanting tomatoes now.
GROW WHAT YOU EAT!!
I don't know about where you are at, but we are supposed to have some very nice weather this weekend. The weather people are talking about temps in the high 70's. April, May and June tend to be very changeable here in the Willamette Valley so we could be back to freezing next weekend who knows.
The season here this year is VERY late. Our cherries are not even in full bloom yet. They are usually in full bloom at least by my birthday which was last week even in a fairly late year so you can see how late we are this year. The warm weather this weekend should be perfect for the cherries.
It should also be a perfect time to get your garden prepared and some cool crop things planted. It's perfect for those root crops that you need to seed directly like carrots, beets and radishes. Carrots and beets take a while ( 3 weeks) to germinate so you can plant radishes as markers( plant them about 2" away) for them in your garden. Radishes come up in a few days and are ready to eat before carrots or beets are very big at all. That is also a very efficient use of garden space.
You can also plant lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and onions, but I recommend plants for those. If you don't get some started yourself we will have them at the Hillsboro and Sherwood Farmers' Markets starting on May 2 and also at Orenco and Tigard on Sundays starting the following weekend. The OHSU market starts in mid May, but they are having a special Earth Day market on April 24th. Krista will be there.
Be sure to save some room for warmer weather plants too. Tomatoes can go in after ALL danger of frost is past. In Hillsboro that is usually about the 10th or 12th of May, but you can keep an eye on the weather as we get close. A warning: Hillsboro had a hard frost on the 18th of May last year. I think Sherwood and Tigard have a little earlier frost free dates than Hillsboro usually, but again I would keep a close eye on the weather.
Some plants really need to be planted when the weather warms up and NOT before. Those include peppers, cucumbers, squash, eggplant and BASIL. We will have lots of those plants at the market when we get closer to the proper time to plant them.
Putting those types of plants in too early usually stunts them and they just can't seem to get going.
I am really looking forward to garden season this year. I have my raised beds all ready to go, and they are properly protected from the deer and my dog. We also have added a large garden space for corn, squash and cucumbers this year. We will be ready to enjoy all of those crops fresh from our garden this year. They taste so much better than what you buy at the store. Also, a few tomato plants can produce a $100 worth of tomatoes. Think what that will do for your food budget.
I am going to go get to work transplanting tomatoes now.
GROW WHAT YOU EAT!!
The season here this year is VERY late. Our cherries are not even in full bloom yet. They are usually in full bloom at least by my birthday which was last week even in a fairly late year so you can see how late we are this year. The warm weather this weekend should be perfect for the cherries.
It should also be a perfect time to get your garden prepared and some cool crop things planted. It's perfect for those root crops that you need to seed directly like carrots, beets and radishes. Carrots and beets take a while ( 3 weeks) to germinate so you can plant radishes as markers( plant them about 2" away) for them in your garden. Radishes come up in a few days and are ready to eat before carrots or beets are very big at all. That is also a very efficient use of garden space.
You can also plant lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and onions, but I recommend plants for those. If you don't get some started yourself we will have them at the Hillsboro and Sherwood Farmers' Markets starting on May 2 and also at Orenco and Tigard on Sundays starting the following weekend. The OHSU market starts in mid May, but they are having a special Earth Day market on April 24th. Krista will be there.
Be sure to save some room for warmer weather plants too. Tomatoes can go in after ALL danger of frost is past. In Hillsboro that is usually about the 10th or 12th of May, but you can keep an eye on the weather as we get close. A warning: Hillsboro had a hard frost on the 18th of May last year. I think Sherwood and Tigard have a little earlier frost free dates than Hillsboro usually, but again I would keep a close eye on the weather.
Some plants really need to be planted when the weather warms up and NOT before. Those include peppers, cucumbers, squash, eggplant and BASIL. We will have lots of those plants at the market when we get closer to the proper time to plant them.
Putting those types of plants in too early usually stunts them and they just can't seem to get going.
I am really looking forward to garden season this year. I have my raised beds all ready to go, and they are properly protected from the deer and my dog. We also have added a large garden space for corn, squash and cucumbers this year. We will be ready to enjoy all of those crops fresh from our garden this year. They taste so much better than what you buy at the store. Also, a few tomato plants can produce a $100 worth of tomatoes. Think what that will do for your food budget.
I am going to go get to work transplanting tomatoes now.
GROW WHAT YOU EAT!!
Friday, March 27, 2009
Small Space Gardening
I have not always been interested in small space gardening. I mean, why would I need to be? I live on a farm after all. Well, the local deer population forced me to try it when they either ate or stomped my garden, particularly my tomato plants year after year.
I really wasn't very good at it at first and I have decided to share my experiences so others don't have to make my mistakes. I have done things that have worked and things that have been disasters. I started slowly, but now I really love it. My raised bed garden is really becoming my little gardening retreat.
The first thing I tried was small raised beds placed near or within my large garden space. Doing raised beds can be expensive and I tried to do my first ones on the cheap. It was one of those disasters. My first ones were too short. If you don't mind bending way down to weed, etc that could be ok, but it didn't work for me. The big problem though was how I tried to protect them from the deer and other critters that wander the area. I thought I could just put frames over the individual beds and use deer or bird netting over them. The frames were about 3 to 4 feet high that held up the netting. The first problem was that it was hard to move the netting out of the way to work in the garden which could have been fixed by changing the design, but there was no point since the deer just walked over the nets and completely stomped my garden anyway. So much for that idea!
After that I decided to explore my yard to find places to plant vegetables, fruits, and herbs that the deer would be less likely to destroy. I had a large of yard area with lots of high maintenance flowering plants like roses and rhododendrons. I converted a small area into a structured herb garden and left some space for vegetables. After that I was really hooked on edible landscape. It was so much fun to go out and harvest fresh vegetables and herbs for dinner. And the deer were a little more nervous about getting that close to my house so they would only top my plants and I would still get plenty of tomatoes to eat.
We took out most of the roses and planted a long row of blueberries, nine large plants that came out of field we were removing. Those nine plants provide us with so many blueberries that we often have a few to sell at the market late in the season after the commercial growers are finished! They are the varieties "Duke" and "Darrow". We will have those varieties available for sale at the markets this year in 2 gal pots.
About 3 or 4 years ago I convinced my husband that we needed to try the raised beds again so I could have test gardens for the many vegetable starts that we grow. This time we made them about 2 feet tall, put poultry wire under them to keep the gophers and moles out, got a load of topsoil so we didn't have to fill them with our heavy clay soil, and put a fence around them. That fence was the biggest issue. We used large garden stakes that first year ( those 1 in. plastic poles with a little metal inside) and used bird netting for the fence.
My dog loves tomatoes and can actually be as hard on them as the deer. The first year she crawled under the netting to get at them. That left a space under the fence that the deer just couldn't resist. It looked like a buck put his head under the netting to browse on the tomato plants then got his antlers tangled in the netting and tore it while bending the poles. We did get some tomatoes, but several plants were pretty much destroyed.
Last year we switched to regular metal fence posts, but my dog continued to crawl under the netting even though I put metal stakes in to hold it down. She really loves tomatoes! I fooled her this year. We invested in poultry wire and I feel like we now have a dog, deer, gopher, bunny, cat proof garden area. That is if my grandchildren remember to close the door!
We have already planted radishes and carrot seed and onion plants. Peas came up as volunteers before all that cold weather and they survived almost 3 feet of snow. They're starting to grow and Molly and I are starting to look forward to fresh peas.
Annika and I planted parsley plants yesterday too so at least one of the beds is coming together.
I will update on the progress in those beds, but now it's time for you to get to work and prepare for the upcoming season. We will have lots of plants at the Hillsboro, Orenco, Sherwood, Tigard and OHSU markets for you to put in your own garden. It is also time to plant early season root crops like radishes, carrots, and beets. Those need to be direct seeded.
I hope this will be helpful to you in creating your own garden spot. If you have questions you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com and we will try to help. We can also take orders for plants or let you know about availability of specific varieties. Please see our plant lists on our website mountainsideherbalnursery.com .
Have fun and GROW WHAT YOU EAT!
I really wasn't very good at it at first and I have decided to share my experiences so others don't have to make my mistakes. I have done things that have worked and things that have been disasters. I started slowly, but now I really love it. My raised bed garden is really becoming my little gardening retreat.
The first thing I tried was small raised beds placed near or within my large garden space. Doing raised beds can be expensive and I tried to do my first ones on the cheap. It was one of those disasters. My first ones were too short. If you don't mind bending way down to weed, etc that could be ok, but it didn't work for me. The big problem though was how I tried to protect them from the deer and other critters that wander the area. I thought I could just put frames over the individual beds and use deer or bird netting over them. The frames were about 3 to 4 feet high that held up the netting. The first problem was that it was hard to move the netting out of the way to work in the garden which could have been fixed by changing the design, but there was no point since the deer just walked over the nets and completely stomped my garden anyway. So much for that idea!
After that I decided to explore my yard to find places to plant vegetables, fruits, and herbs that the deer would be less likely to destroy. I had a large of yard area with lots of high maintenance flowering plants like roses and rhododendrons. I converted a small area into a structured herb garden and left some space for vegetables. After that I was really hooked on edible landscape. It was so much fun to go out and harvest fresh vegetables and herbs for dinner. And the deer were a little more nervous about getting that close to my house so they would only top my plants and I would still get plenty of tomatoes to eat.
We took out most of the roses and planted a long row of blueberries, nine large plants that came out of field we were removing. Those nine plants provide us with so many blueberries that we often have a few to sell at the market late in the season after the commercial growers are finished! They are the varieties "Duke" and "Darrow". We will have those varieties available for sale at the markets this year in 2 gal pots.
About 3 or 4 years ago I convinced my husband that we needed to try the raised beds again so I could have test gardens for the many vegetable starts that we grow. This time we made them about 2 feet tall, put poultry wire under them to keep the gophers and moles out, got a load of topsoil so we didn't have to fill them with our heavy clay soil, and put a fence around them. That fence was the biggest issue. We used large garden stakes that first year ( those 1 in. plastic poles with a little metal inside) and used bird netting for the fence.
My dog loves tomatoes and can actually be as hard on them as the deer. The first year she crawled under the netting to get at them. That left a space under the fence that the deer just couldn't resist. It looked like a buck put his head under the netting to browse on the tomato plants then got his antlers tangled in the netting and tore it while bending the poles. We did get some tomatoes, but several plants were pretty much destroyed.
Last year we switched to regular metal fence posts, but my dog continued to crawl under the netting even though I put metal stakes in to hold it down. She really loves tomatoes! I fooled her this year. We invested in poultry wire and I feel like we now have a dog, deer, gopher, bunny, cat proof garden area. That is if my grandchildren remember to close the door!
We have already planted radishes and carrot seed and onion plants. Peas came up as volunteers before all that cold weather and they survived almost 3 feet of snow. They're starting to grow and Molly and I are starting to look forward to fresh peas.
Annika and I planted parsley plants yesterday too so at least one of the beds is coming together.
I will update on the progress in those beds, but now it's time for you to get to work and prepare for the upcoming season. We will have lots of plants at the Hillsboro, Orenco, Sherwood, Tigard and OHSU markets for you to put in your own garden. It is also time to plant early season root crops like radishes, carrots, and beets. Those need to be direct seeded.
I hope this will be helpful to you in creating your own garden spot. If you have questions you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com and we will try to help. We can also take orders for plants or let you know about availability of specific varieties. Please see our plant lists on our website mountainsideherbalnursery.com .
Have fun and GROW WHAT YOU EAT!
I have not always been interested in small space gardening. I mean, why would I need to be? I live on a farm after all. Well, the local deer population forced me to try it when they either ate or stomped my garden, particularly my tomato plants year after year.
I really wasn't very good at it at first and I have decided to share my experiences so others don't have to make my mistakes. I have done things that have worked and things that have been disasters. I started slowly, but now I really love it. My raised bed garden is really becoming my little gardening retreat.
The first thing I tried was small raised beds placed near or within my large garden space. Doing raised beds can be expensive and I tried to do my first ones on the cheap. It was one of those disasters. My first ones were too short. If you don't mind bending way down to weed, etc that could be ok, but it didn't work for me. The big problem though was how I tried to protect them from the deer and other critters that wander the area. I thought I could just put frames over the individual beds and use deer or bird netting over them. The frames were about 3 to 4 feet high that held up the netting. The first problem was that it was hard to move the netting out of the way to work in the garden which could have been fixed by changing the design, but there was no point since the deer just walked over the nets and completely stomped my garden anyway. So much for that idea!
After that I decided to explore my yard to find places to plant vegetables, fruits, and herbs that the deer would be less likely to destroy. I had a large of yard area with lots of high maintenance flowering plants like roses and rhododendrons. I converted a small area into a structured herb garden and left some space for vegetables. After that I was really hooked on edible landscape. It was so much fun to go out and harvest fresh vegetables and herbs for dinner. And the deer were a little more nervous about getting that close to my house so they would only top my plants and I would still get plenty of tomatoes to eat.
We took out most of the roses and planted a long row of blueberries, nine large plants that came out of field we were removing. Those nine plants provide us with so many blueberries that we often have a few to sell at the market late in the season after the commercial growers are finished! They are the varieties "Duke" and "Darrow". We will have those varieties available for sale at the markets this year in 2 gal pots.
About 3 or 4 years ago I convinced my husband that we needed to try the raised beds again so I could have test gardens for the many vegetable starts that we grow. This time we made them about 2 feet tall, put poultry wire under them to keep the gophers and moles out, got a load of topsoil so we didn't have to fill them with our heavy clay soil, and put a fence around them. That fence was the biggest issue. We used large garden stakes that first year ( those 1 in. plastic poles with a little metal inside) and used bird netting for the fence.
My dog loves tomatoes and can actually be as hard on them as the deer. The first year she crawled under the netting to get at them. That left a space under the fence that the deer just couldn't resist. It looked like a buck put his head under the netting to browse on the tomato plants then got his antlers tangled in the netting and tore it while bending the poles. We did get some tomatoes, but several plants were pretty much destroyed.
Last year we switched to regular metal fence posts, but my dog continued to crawl under the netting even though I put metal stakes in to hold it down. She really loves tomatoes! I fooled her this year. We invested in poultry wire and I feel like we now have a dog, deer, gopher, bunny, cat proof garden area. That is if my grandchildren remember to close the door!
We have already planted radishes and carrot seed and onion plants. Peas came up as volunteers before all that cold weather and they survived almost 3 feet of snow. They're starting to grow and Molly and I are starting to look forward to fresh peas.
Annika and I planted parsley plants yesterday too so at least one of the beds is coming together.
I will update on the progress in those beds, but now it's time for you to get to work and prepare for the upcoming season. We will have lots of plants at the Hillsboro, Orenco, Sherwood, Tigard and OHSU markets for you to put in your own garden. It is also time to plant early season root crops like radishes, carrots, and beets. Those need to be direct seeded.
I hope this will be helpful to you in creating your own garden spot. If you have questions you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com and we will try to help. We can also take orders for plants or let you know about availability of specific varieties. Please see our plant lists on our website mountainsideherbalnursery.com .
Have fun and GROW WHAT YOU EAT!
I really wasn't very good at it at first and I have decided to share my experiences so others don't have to make my mistakes. I have done things that have worked and things that have been disasters. I started slowly, but now I really love it. My raised bed garden is really becoming my little gardening retreat.
The first thing I tried was small raised beds placed near or within my large garden space. Doing raised beds can be expensive and I tried to do my first ones on the cheap. It was one of those disasters. My first ones were too short. If you don't mind bending way down to weed, etc that could be ok, but it didn't work for me. The big problem though was how I tried to protect them from the deer and other critters that wander the area. I thought I could just put frames over the individual beds and use deer or bird netting over them. The frames were about 3 to 4 feet high that held up the netting. The first problem was that it was hard to move the netting out of the way to work in the garden which could have been fixed by changing the design, but there was no point since the deer just walked over the nets and completely stomped my garden anyway. So much for that idea!
After that I decided to explore my yard to find places to plant vegetables, fruits, and herbs that the deer would be less likely to destroy. I had a large of yard area with lots of high maintenance flowering plants like roses and rhododendrons. I converted a small area into a structured herb garden and left some space for vegetables. After that I was really hooked on edible landscape. It was so much fun to go out and harvest fresh vegetables and herbs for dinner. And the deer were a little more nervous about getting that close to my house so they would only top my plants and I would still get plenty of tomatoes to eat.
We took out most of the roses and planted a long row of blueberries, nine large plants that came out of field we were removing. Those nine plants provide us with so many blueberries that we often have a few to sell at the market late in the season after the commercial growers are finished! They are the varieties "Duke" and "Darrow". We will have those varieties available for sale at the markets this year in 2 gal pots.
About 3 or 4 years ago I convinced my husband that we needed to try the raised beds again so I could have test gardens for the many vegetable starts that we grow. This time we made them about 2 feet tall, put poultry wire under them to keep the gophers and moles out, got a load of topsoil so we didn't have to fill them with our heavy clay soil, and put a fence around them. That fence was the biggest issue. We used large garden stakes that first year ( those 1 in. plastic poles with a little metal inside) and used bird netting for the fence.
My dog loves tomatoes and can actually be as hard on them as the deer. The first year she crawled under the netting to get at them. That left a space under the fence that the deer just couldn't resist. It looked like a buck put his head under the netting to browse on the tomato plants then got his antlers tangled in the netting and tore it while bending the poles. We did get some tomatoes, but several plants were pretty much destroyed.
Last year we switched to regular metal fence posts, but my dog continued to crawl under the netting even though I put metal stakes in to hold it down. She really loves tomatoes! I fooled her this year. We invested in poultry wire and I feel like we now have a dog, deer, gopher, bunny, cat proof garden area. That is if my grandchildren remember to close the door!
We have already planted radishes and carrot seed and onion plants. Peas came up as volunteers before all that cold weather and they survived almost 3 feet of snow. They're starting to grow and Molly and I are starting to look forward to fresh peas.
Annika and I planted parsley plants yesterday too so at least one of the beds is coming together.
I will update on the progress in those beds, but now it's time for you to get to work and prepare for the upcoming season. We will have lots of plants at the Hillsboro, Orenco, Sherwood, Tigard and OHSU markets for you to put in your own garden. It is also time to plant early season root crops like radishes, carrots, and beets. Those need to be direct seeded.
I hope this will be helpful to you in creating your own garden spot. If you have questions you can email us at mtherbal@aol.com and we will try to help. We can also take orders for plants or let you know about availability of specific varieties. Please see our plant lists on our website mountainsideherbalnursery.com .
Have fun and GROW WHAT YOU EAT!
Labels:
edible landscape,
raised beds,
small space gardening
Friday, March 20, 2009
Grow What You Eat!

Krista said that I should write this week about why growing your own food is a good idea so I will. There are so many reasons that I can't possibly name them all, but here are a few of my favorites:
1. THIS IS THE BIG ONE!! The food you grow is fresher and tastes better. You simply will not believe how good a homegrown tomato tastes!
2. It is satisfying and fun to grow something you eat. It is very liberating to know you grew this for yourself and your family. Kids especially love to eat something they helped to grow and going out in the garden to "graze" encourages them to eat healthy snacks (and gets them out of the house).
3. You know what was put on the food as it was grown. You can grow conventionally or organically, or anyway you like. You also know where the water came from that was used to grow it. My hot button for this is green onions. I grow them indoors in the winter because I simply will not feed my family green onions grown in Mexico. There have been too many cases of food poisoning from those things and they are so hard to wash. If the ones in the store are not clearly marked I make the produce people go look up where they came from before I buy them. Of course in the summer I can simply get them at the farmer's market if I run out of my own. We eat a lot of them.
I also substitute chives, garlic chives and welsh onions for green onions if I run low. Those are all easy to grow even in a pot on the deck.
4. You can actually lower your food bill, especially if you preserve what you grow.This year there is a water shortage in California. That means that a lot of summer vegetables are not going to get planted. Tomatoes and lettuce in particular could be in short supply and expensive.
5. You can eat varieties of produce that appeal to you and your family. We grow over 40 kinds of basil plants, over 30 kinds of tomato plants, over 20 kinds of pepper plants, and lots of different cucumbers, squash, corn, and of course herbs for you. You can see our variety lists on our website: www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com
6. This is the ultimate in being a locovore ( someone who eats only food grown within a certain radius of where they live). How can you get any closer than your own backyard?
There are probably at least a dozen other reasons to Grow What You Eat, but these some of my favorites.
It's time to really start to plan what you are going to grow this year. Next week I will talk about my experiences with small space raised bed gardening.
Grow What You Eat!
1. THIS IS THE BIG ONE!! The food you grow is fresher and tastes better. You simply will not believe how good a homegrown tomato tastes!
2. It is satisfying and fun to grow something you eat. It is very liberating to know you grew this for yourself and your family. Kids especially love to eat something they helped to grow and going out in the garden to "graze" encourages them to eat healthy snacks (and gets them out of the house).
3. You know what was put on the food as it was grown. You can grow conventionally or organically, or anyway you like. You also know where the water came from that was used to grow it. My hot button for this is green onions. I grow them indoors in the winter because I simply will not feed my family green onions grown in Mexico. There have been too many cases of food poisoning from those things and they are so hard to wash. If the ones in the store are not clearly marked I make the produce people go look up where they came from before I buy them. Of course in the summer I can simply get them at the farmer's market if I run out of my own. We eat a lot of them.
I also substitute chives, garlic chives and welsh onions for green onions if I run low. Those are all easy to grow even in a pot on the deck.
4. You can actually lower your food bill, especially if you preserve what you grow.This year there is a water shortage in California. That means that a lot of summer vegetables are not going to get planted. Tomatoes and lettuce in particular could be in short supply and expensive.
5. You can eat varieties of produce that appeal to you and your family. We grow over 40 kinds of basil plants, over 30 kinds of tomato plants, over 20 kinds of pepper plants, and lots of different cucumbers, squash, corn, and of course herbs for you. You can see our variety lists on our website: www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com
6. This is the ultimate in being a locovore ( someone who eats only food grown within a certain radius of where they live). How can you get any closer than your own backyard?
There are probably at least a dozen other reasons to Grow What You Eat, but these some of my favorites.
It's time to really start to plan what you are going to grow this year. Next week I will talk about my experiences with small space raised bed gardening.
Grow What You Eat!

Krista said that I should write this week about why growing your own food is a good idea so I will. There are so many reasons that I can't possibly name them all, but here are a few of my favorites:
1. THIS IS THE BIG ONE!! The food you grow is fresher and tastes better. You simply will not believe how good a homegrown tomato tastes!
2. It is satisfying and fun to grow something you eat. It is very liberating to know you grew this for yourself and your family. Kids especially love to eat something they helped to grow and going out in the garden to "graze" encourages them to eat healthy snacks (and gets them out of the house).
3. You know what was put on the food as it was grown. You can grow conventionally or organically, or anyway you like. You also know where the water came from that was used to grow it. My hot button for this is green onions. I grow them indoors in the winter because I simply will not feed my family green onions grown in Mexico. There have been too many cases of food poisoning from those things and they are so hard to wash. If the ones in the store are not clearly marked I make the produce people go look up where they came from before I buy them. Of course in the summer I can simply get them at the farmer's market if I run out of my own. We eat a lot of them.
I also substitute chives, garlic chives and welsh onions for green onions if I run low. Those are all easy to grow even in a pot on the deck.
4. You can actually lower your food bill, especially if you preserve what you grow.This year there is a water shortage in California. That means that a lot of summer vegetables are not going to get planted. Tomatoes and lettuce in particular could be in short supply and expensive.
5. You can eat varieties of produce that appeal to you and your family. We grow over 40 kinds of basil plants, over 30 kinds of tomato plants, over 20 kinds of pepper plants, and lots of different cucumbers, squash, corn, and of course herbs for you. You can see our variety lists on our website: www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com
6. This is the ultimate in being a locovore ( someone who eats only food grown within a certain radius of where they live). How can you get any closer than your own backyard?
There are probably at least a dozen other reasons to Grow What You Eat, but these some of my favorites.
It's time to really start to plan what you are going to grow this year. Next week I will talk about my experiences with small space raised bed gardening.
Grow What You Eat!
1. THIS IS THE BIG ONE!! The food you grow is fresher and tastes better. You simply will not believe how good a homegrown tomato tastes!
2. It is satisfying and fun to grow something you eat. It is very liberating to know you grew this for yourself and your family. Kids especially love to eat something they helped to grow and going out in the garden to "graze" encourages them to eat healthy snacks (and gets them out of the house).
3. You know what was put on the food as it was grown. You can grow conventionally or organically, or anyway you like. You also know where the water came from that was used to grow it. My hot button for this is green onions. I grow them indoors in the winter because I simply will not feed my family green onions grown in Mexico. There have been too many cases of food poisoning from those things and they are so hard to wash. If the ones in the store are not clearly marked I make the produce people go look up where they came from before I buy them. Of course in the summer I can simply get them at the farmer's market if I run out of my own. We eat a lot of them.
I also substitute chives, garlic chives and welsh onions for green onions if I run low. Those are all easy to grow even in a pot on the deck.
4. You can actually lower your food bill, especially if you preserve what you grow.This year there is a water shortage in California. That means that a lot of summer vegetables are not going to get planted. Tomatoes and lettuce in particular could be in short supply and expensive.
5. You can eat varieties of produce that appeal to you and your family. We grow over 40 kinds of basil plants, over 30 kinds of tomato plants, over 20 kinds of pepper plants, and lots of different cucumbers, squash, corn, and of course herbs for you. You can see our variety lists on our website: www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com
6. This is the ultimate in being a locovore ( someone who eats only food grown within a certain radius of where they live). How can you get any closer than your own backyard?
There are probably at least a dozen other reasons to Grow What You Eat, but these some of my favorites.
It's time to really start to plan what you are going to grow this year. Next week I will talk about my experiences with small space raised bed gardening.
Grow What You Eat!
Labels:
edible landscape,
Home gardening,
homegrown
Friday, March 13, 2009
Berries at Mountainside Herbal Nursery

I potted up blueberry and raspberry plants this week so I thought that might be a good subject to talk about this week.
Berry plants are pretty easy to grow and provide you with fresh, tasty berries that are so... expensive in the store. What a treat to be able to just go outside and pick what you want eat. In the case of blueberries you'll probably even have enough to freeze some as well.
Blueberries are super because they offer the extra bonus of being a beautiful landscape plant. Blueberry foliage turns a bright red in the fall that rivals any ornamental. When mature(10 years old plus) blueberries can also produce 15-20 lbs of fruit. Imagine what that would cost in the store (or even at the Farmer's Market)!!
Raspberries require a little more pruning and care than blueberries in theory, but I just set some plants in pots out a few years ago that I had dug up and was going to transplant then forgot about them. The next thing I knew the plants had transplanted themselves in of all places a mostly shady spot. I thought well that's not going to work, but last year I had some of the biggest Willamette raspberries I have ever seen. Imagine what I would have if they were in a good sunny spot like they are supposed to be.
We are going to have two varieties of blueberries this year. You always want to plant at least two different kinds so you get good cross pollination to get the heaviest crop. We will have my two personal favorites Duke and Darrow.
Duke is a late blooming, but early crop med to large sized berry. That is a big advantage if you tend to get late frosts. This variety has proved to to be very productive in my yard.
Darrow is a late VERY large berry. It is a lot of fun because of those large berries that really amaze people. It produces fewer berries because of that large size, but people who like to eat fresh berries or freeze them for their cereal in the winter really like these.
We will also have Willamette raspberry plants this year. This is a variety developed for this area and is an industry standard. It rarely gets crumble berry and is large, firm and sweet.
We will also have Tribute strawberries again. We like these because they can be container grown as well as in small space gardens. They are "ever bearing" or "day neutral" so they produce from the time the weather warms up in the spring until we get a hard freeze in the fall. They will sometimes quit producing flowers if we have a really hot period, but will start again as soon as it cools. I like this one because the berries are sweet and have a genuine Strawberry flavor. These make an especially fun "kid" project to learn about growing something to eat.
Now is the time to start to plan space for some of these great additions to your yard, patio or garden. Grow what you eat!!!
Berry plants are pretty easy to grow and provide you with fresh, tasty berries that are so... expensive in the store. What a treat to be able to just go outside and pick what you want eat. In the case of blueberries you'll probably even have enough to freeze some as well.
Blueberries are super because they offer the extra bonus of being a beautiful landscape plant. Blueberry foliage turns a bright red in the fall that rivals any ornamental. When mature(10 years old plus) blueberries can also produce 15-20 lbs of fruit. Imagine what that would cost in the store (or even at the Farmer's Market)!!
Raspberries require a little more pruning and care than blueberries in theory, but I just set some plants in pots out a few years ago that I had dug up and was going to transplant then forgot about them. The next thing I knew the plants had transplanted themselves in of all places a mostly shady spot. I thought well that's not going to work, but last year I had some of the biggest Willamette raspberries I have ever seen. Imagine what I would have if they were in a good sunny spot like they are supposed to be.
We are going to have two varieties of blueberries this year. You always want to plant at least two different kinds so you get good cross pollination to get the heaviest crop. We will have my two personal favorites Duke and Darrow.
Duke is a late blooming, but early crop med to large sized berry. That is a big advantage if you tend to get late frosts. This variety has proved to to be very productive in my yard.
Darrow is a late VERY large berry. It is a lot of fun because of those large berries that really amaze people. It produces fewer berries because of that large size, but people who like to eat fresh berries or freeze them for their cereal in the winter really like these.
We will also have Willamette raspberry plants this year. This is a variety developed for this area and is an industry standard. It rarely gets crumble berry and is large, firm and sweet.
We will also have Tribute strawberries again. We like these because they can be container grown as well as in small space gardens. They are "ever bearing" or "day neutral" so they produce from the time the weather warms up in the spring until we get a hard freeze in the fall. They will sometimes quit producing flowers if we have a really hot period, but will start again as soon as it cools. I like this one because the berries are sweet and have a genuine Strawberry flavor. These make an especially fun "kid" project to learn about growing something to eat.
Now is the time to start to plan space for some of these great additions to your yard, patio or garden. Grow what you eat!!!

I potted up blueberry and raspberry plants this week so I thought that might be a good subject to talk about this week.
Berry plants are pretty easy to grow and provide you with fresh, tasty berries that are so... expensive in the store. What a treat to be able to just go outside and pick what you want eat. In the case of blueberries you'll probably even have enough to freeze some as well.
Blueberries are super because they offer the extra bonus of being a beautiful landscape plant. Blueberry foliage turns a bright red in the fall that rivals any ornamental. When mature(10 years old plus) blueberries can also produce 15-20 lbs of fruit. Imagine what that would cost in the store (or even at the Farmer's Market)!!
Raspberries require a little more pruning and care than blueberries in theory, but I just set some plants in pots out a few years ago that I had dug up and was going to transplant then forgot about them. The next thing I knew the plants had transplanted themselves in of all places a mostly shady spot. I thought well that's not going to work, but last year I had some of the biggest Willamette raspberries I have ever seen. Imagine what I would have if they were in a good sunny spot like they are supposed to be.
We are going to have two varieties of blueberries this year. You always want to plant at least two different kinds so you get good cross pollination to get the heaviest crop. We will have my two personal favorites Duke and Darrow.
Duke is a late blooming, but early crop med to large sized berry. That is a big advantage if you tend to get late frosts. This variety has proved to to be very productive in my yard.
Darrow is a late VERY large berry. It is a lot of fun because of those large berries that really amaze people. It produces fewer berries because of that large size, but people who like to eat fresh berries or freeze them for their cereal in the winter really like these.
We will also have Willamette raspberry plants this year. This is a variety developed for this area and is an industry standard. It rarely gets crumble berry and is large, firm and sweet.
We will also have Tribute strawberries again. We like these because they can be container grown as well as in small space gardens. They are "ever bearing" or "day neutral" so they produce from the time the weather warms up in the spring until we get a hard freeze in the fall. They will sometimes quit producing flowers if we have a really hot period, but will start again as soon as it cools. I like this one because the berries are sweet and have a genuine Strawberry flavor. These make an especially fun "kid" project to learn about growing something to eat.
Now is the time to start to plan space for some of these great additions to your yard, patio or garden. Grow what you eat!!!
Berry plants are pretty easy to grow and provide you with fresh, tasty berries that are so... expensive in the store. What a treat to be able to just go outside and pick what you want eat. In the case of blueberries you'll probably even have enough to freeze some as well.
Blueberries are super because they offer the extra bonus of being a beautiful landscape plant. Blueberry foliage turns a bright red in the fall that rivals any ornamental. When mature(10 years old plus) blueberries can also produce 15-20 lbs of fruit. Imagine what that would cost in the store (or even at the Farmer's Market)!!
Raspberries require a little more pruning and care than blueberries in theory, but I just set some plants in pots out a few years ago that I had dug up and was going to transplant then forgot about them. The next thing I knew the plants had transplanted themselves in of all places a mostly shady spot. I thought well that's not going to work, but last year I had some of the biggest Willamette raspberries I have ever seen. Imagine what I would have if they were in a good sunny spot like they are supposed to be.
We are going to have two varieties of blueberries this year. You always want to plant at least two different kinds so you get good cross pollination to get the heaviest crop. We will have my two personal favorites Duke and Darrow.
Duke is a late blooming, but early crop med to large sized berry. That is a big advantage if you tend to get late frosts. This variety has proved to to be very productive in my yard.
Darrow is a late VERY large berry. It is a lot of fun because of those large berries that really amaze people. It produces fewer berries because of that large size, but people who like to eat fresh berries or freeze them for their cereal in the winter really like these.
We will also have Willamette raspberry plants this year. This is a variety developed for this area and is an industry standard. It rarely gets crumble berry and is large, firm and sweet.
We will also have Tribute strawberries again. We like these because they can be container grown as well as in small space gardens. They are "ever bearing" or "day neutral" so they produce from the time the weather warms up in the spring until we get a hard freeze in the fall. They will sometimes quit producing flowers if we have a really hot period, but will start again as soon as it cools. I like this one because the berries are sweet and have a genuine Strawberry flavor. These make an especially fun "kid" project to learn about growing something to eat.
Now is the time to start to plan space for some of these great additions to your yard, patio or garden. Grow what you eat!!!
Labels:
blueberries,
edible landscape,
Raspberries,
strawberries
Friday, February 27, 2009
I have been a proponent of the concept of edible landscape for about 20 years. I have a bit of a practical streak and really just couldn't see doing all of that work in my yard and not getting something great to eat out of it. ( Besides the deer usually eat anything that is too far from my house so I had to start planting closer). At Mountainside Herbal Nursery we have put that experience to work for you and will offer an amazing variety of herb, vegetable, fruit and even edible flower plants for you this year. Whether you have a large garden that you want to feed your family from year round or room on a deck for some great fresh tomatoes and herbs we will have what you need.
I think I have finally completed the seed buying process for the year and did I really go crazy this year. We had so many requests last year year for additional types of vegetable starts that I decided to do a little research to find out which vegetables do well as transplants. Boy was I surprised! Many vegetables actually do better in this area as transplants due to our very cool spring soil temperatures. As we get closer to planting season I will discuss the many varieties we have added to help you get started on your edible landscape.
Check out our plant lists for 2009 at www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com . If you have any questions please email at mtherbal@aol.com or call 503 709 6947
I think I have finally completed the seed buying process for the year and did I really go crazy this year. We had so many requests last year year for additional types of vegetable starts that I decided to do a little research to find out which vegetables do well as transplants. Boy was I surprised! Many vegetables actually do better in this area as transplants due to our very cool spring soil temperatures. As we get closer to planting season I will discuss the many varieties we have added to help you get started on your edible landscape.
Check out our plant lists for 2009 at www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com . If you have any questions please email at mtherbal@aol.com or call 503 709 6947
I have been a proponent of the concept of edible landscape for about 20 years. I have a bit of a practical streak and really just couldn't see doing all of that work in my yard and not getting something great to eat out of it. ( Besides the deer usually eat anything that is too far from my house so I had to start planting closer). At Mountainside Herbal Nursery we have put that experience to work for you and will offer an amazing variety of herb, vegetable, fruit and even edible flower plants for you this year. Whether you have a large garden that you want to feed your family from year round or room on a deck for some great fresh tomatoes and herbs we will have what you need.
I think I have finally completed the seed buying process for the year and did I really go crazy this year. We had so many requests last year year for additional types of vegetable starts that I decided to do a little research to find out which vegetables do well as transplants. Boy was I surprised! Many vegetables actually do better in this area as transplants due to our very cool spring soil temperatures. As we get closer to planting season I will discuss the many varieties we have added to help you get started on your edible landscape.
Check out our plant lists for 2009 at www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com . If you have any questions please email at mtherbal@aol.com or call 503 709 6947
I think I have finally completed the seed buying process for the year and did I really go crazy this year. We had so many requests last year year for additional types of vegetable starts that I decided to do a little research to find out which vegetables do well as transplants. Boy was I surprised! Many vegetables actually do better in this area as transplants due to our very cool spring soil temperatures. As we get closer to planting season I will discuss the many varieties we have added to help you get started on your edible landscape.
Check out our plant lists for 2009 at www.mountainsideherbalnursery.com . If you have any questions please email at mtherbal@aol.com or call 503 709 6947
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)